FIXING A BURN-THROUGH

Person standing behind a laboratory work surface with a transparent enclosed machine, including a cooling fan, and various electrical components, on a black table.
Two Husky screwdrivers, one flat-head and one Phillips-head, placed on a black work surface with a metal ruler and a small hex key in the background.
Person using a screwdriver to work on a white electronic device with a black cooling fan.
A person stands behind a workbench, with a device consisting of a clear plastic enclosure, a cooling fan on top, and some electrical cords.
Person adjusting a white connection on a laboratory or medical device with a black and silver surface.

Now go to the foil block and unscrew the nylon bolts. If you can’t unscrew them with your fingers you can use a 7/16” wrench or pair of pliers.

Close-up image showing a glass surface with some screws, metallic tape, and a black wire.

Notice how the foil is folded over and rests on top of the glass.

Person working on a large, illuminated glass panel with a black segment on a worktable.

Using the Phillips screwdriver unscrew all of the railings.

Person installing or repairing a large glass sheet on a black workbench, using a white tool, with various tools nearby.

Place railings to the side.

Person demonstrating the adhesion of a thin aluminum sheet to glass using a large glass plate.

Carefully remove top sheet of glass holding the foil down. Do not reuse this glass.

Person measuring a sheet of reflective metallic material with a ruler on a white table.
A person's hand using a combination square to measure a piece of metal on a white surface.
Person handling a large sheet of glass on a work table, with glass-cutting tools on the side.

No need to replace the foil if it did not rip and/or there are no holes. If you do need to replace the foil, use Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap extra wide (18”) and use the foil as a template making sure the “tab” under the foil block is between 4” – 5” long.

If you do replace the foil, make sure that the shiny side is face up.

Take your ruler and measure 2” margins from the foil to the edge of the bottom sheet of glass.

Put new piece of glass in.

Close-up of a metallic object with screws and a glass panel on top, with a person in a black shirt in the background.

Ensure that the edges of both planes of glass line up. The thin piece of 1/8” plain plate glass with lightly ground edges goes on top. The bottom glass is 3/16” it also should have lightly ground edges and be plain plate glass.

Do NOT use tempered glass!

Person working with a lightbox and a handheld tool, possibly for inspecting or examining a glass or reflective surface.

Next screw the rails back on.

Close-up photo of a measuring tape extended to about 6 inches, placed on a metallic surface with a white plastic device nearby. Part of a person's arm or hand and black clothing are visible in the background.

Make sure the “tab” under the foil block is between 4” – 5” long.

Close-up of a person's hand holding a yellow measuring tape next to a piece of metal on a white surface, with a person wearing dark clothing in the background.

You should have about 2 ½” to 3” of tab sticking out from between the 2 pieces of glass.

A person measures the thickness of a glass piece using a yellow Stanley tape measure and a white magnetic glass cutter. The tape measure shows approximately 0.25 inches.

Fold the tab over itself to get about an inch high folded tab.

A person pointing at a metal piece with a ruler for measurement on a white surface, with screws and a small level nearby.

Now fold the tab gently over the top glass.

Close-up of a hand adjusting a paper guillotine paper cutter with a white base and metal blade.

Attach 1 nylon screw into the foil block to “anchor” the block in the hole while you reattach the foil block.

Ensure the silver strip under the foil block lays on top of the tab that’s folded over the top piece of glass and the silver strip on the foil block does not stick past the foil tab on the glass.

A person assembling or repairing a piece of equipment with metal and plastic parts on a black work surface, using a hand to adjust a white plastic component.

Finish screwing in the nylon bolts, finger tightness is fine. You just don’t want the foil block to move around but the glass should not be “pinched”.

NOTE: Do not screw the screws in too tight - you don’t want to strip them.

Person using a screwdriver to secure a component of a laboratory or technical device on a white work surface.

Put the super cooler back onto the base, making sure the copper is over the foil. The black line on the cooler block should line up with the opening on the cooler.

If the black line has demised or you have an older block, line up the block about an 1/8” away from the internal cut out.

Screw in the brass bolts, finger tight.

A person is adjusting or inspecting a black power supply cord on a clear plastic machine or device.

Create the black line.

The black line is there as a reminder to not put your feet on the cooler and to keep away from the foil block.

You can use electrical tape or a sharpie, the tape lasts longer but you also can reapply the sharpie as needed. The width of the tape really does not matter.

A person wearing a pink shirt and a green watch is pointing at a black cable strip on a table next to a clear plastic enclosure with a black cooling fan on top.

Attach the tape from the railing to about 2” inches from the cooler, using about 2 fingers as a margin.

An X-Acto knife is a good tool to use.

Two hands working with a black strap or band on a metallic surface, next to a clear plastic container or display.

Cut another strip and place it on the side of the cooler using the same 2” margin.

Close-up of a person working with a delicate, transparent material, possibly glass or plastic, on a cutting or assembly table, with tools and equipment nearby.

Take another strip and connect the lines from the cooler past the foil block to the railing. It should have about a 3–4-inch distance between the foil block and the tape.

Person cutting a sheet of reflective material with a utility knife on a white surface, with a black frame nearby.

Cut off excess tape.

Person wearing a pink shirt cutting a piece of reflective, foil-like material with a utility knife.

You will need a 22” x 24” x 1/8”  replacement piece of plain plate glass with edges lightly ground.

When you start your burn-through repair, we suggest you put it on a surface that’s easy to work on.

YOU WILL NEED:

  • 1 Phillips screwdriver

  • 1 flathead screwdriver

  • Small container for keeping screws together

  • Ruler or tape measure

  • X-Acto knife

Start by removing the screws that hold the super cooler to the base using the flathead screwdriver

This is what the back looks like when the screws are out of the clamp block. You are now ready to take the super cooler off the base and set it aside.

Great job you have now changed out the glass and repaired a burn-through!