FIXING A BURN THROUGH
Now go to the foil block and unscrew the nylon bolts. If you can’t unscrew them with your fingers you can use a 7/16” wrench or pair of pliers
Notice how the foil is folded over and rests on top of the glass.
Using the Phillips screwdriver unscrew all of the railings.
Place railings to the side.
Carefully remove top sheet of glass holding the foil down. Do not reuse this glass.
No need to replace the foil if it did not rip and/or there are no holes. If you do need to replace the foil use Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap extra wide (18”) and use the foil as a template making sure the “tab” under the foil block is between 4” – 5” long.
If you do replace the foil make sure that the shinny side is face up.
Take your ruler and measure 2” margins from the foil to the edge of the bottom sheet of glass.
Put new piece of glass in.
Notice that the edges of both pieces of glass line up. The thin piece of 1/8” plain plate glass with lightly ground edges goes on top. The bottom glass is 3/16” it also should have lightly ground edges and be plain plate glass.
Do NOT use tempered glass!
Next screw the rails back on.
Making sure the “tab” under the foil block is between 4” – 5” long.
You should have about 2 ½” to 3” of tab sticking out from between the 2 pieces of glass.
Fold the tab over itself to get about an inch high folded tab.
Now fold the tab gently over the top glass.
Attach 1 nylon screw into the foil block to “anchor” the block in the hole while you reattach the foil block.
Notice how the silver strip under the foil block lays on top of the tab that’s folded over the top piece of glass and the silver strip on the foil block does not stick past the foil tab on the glass.
Finish screwing in the nylon bolts, finger tightness is fine, you just don’t want the foil block to move around but the glass should not be “pinched”.
NOTE: Do not screw the screws in too tight, you don’t want to strip them.
Put the super cooler back onto the base making sure the copper is over the foil. The black line on the cooler block should line up with the opening on the cooler.
If the black line has demised or you have an older block, line up the block about an 1/8” away from the internal cut out.
Screw in the brass bolts, finger tight.
Creating the black line.
The black line is there as a reminder to not put your feet on the cooler and to keep away from the foil block.
You can use electrical tape or a sharpie, the tape lasts longer but you also reapply the sharpie as needed. The width of the tape really does not matter.
Attach the tape from the railing to about 2” inches from the cooler, you can use about 2 fingers as a margin.
An X-Acto knife is a good tool to use.
Attach the tape from the railing to about 2” inches from the cooler, you can use about 2 fingers as a margin.
An X-Acto knife is a good tool to use.
Cut another strip and place it on the side of the cooler using the same 2’ margin.
Take another strip and connect the lines from the cooler past the foil block to the railing. It should have about a 3–4-inch distance between the foil block and the tape.
Cut off excess tape.
When you start your burn through repair, we suggest you put it on a surface that’s easy to work on.
YOU WILL NEED:
1 Phillip’s screwdriver
1 flathead screwdriver
Small container for keeping screws together
Ruler or tape measure
X-Acto knife
Start by removing the screws that hold the super cooler to the base using the flathead screwdriver
When the screws are out of the clamp block this is what the back looks like. You are now ready to take the super cooler off the base and set it aside.
Great job you have now changed out the glass and repaired a burn through!